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DAY SIX ~ WÜRZBURG

You would never know it today, but on 16 March 1945, about 90% of the city full of civilians (and military hospitals) was destroyed in 17 minutes by 225 British Lancaster bombers during a World War II air raid. All of the city's churches, cathedrals, and other monuments were heavily damaged or destroyed. The city center,which dated from medieval times, was totally destroyed in a firestorm in which 5,000 people perished. Over the next 20 years, the buildings of historical importance were painstakingly and accurately replicated. The citizens who rebuilt the city immediately after the end of the war were mostly women ー? Trümmerfrauen ("rubble women") ー? because the men were either dead or taken prisoners of war. After the war, Würzburg was host to the U.S. Army's 3rd Infantry Division, 1st Infantry Division, U.S. Army Hospital and various other U.S. military units that maintained a presence in Germany. The U.S. units were withdrawn from Würzburg in 2008, bringing an end to over 60 years of U.S. military presence in Würzburg.

This is the Fortress Marienberg with the Old Main Bridge in the foreground. Both are signature sites of Würzburg.

The homes and shops, the towering spires of the cathedral all look as if they are in pristine condition, and it's no illusion.
There is no sign of damage from the war anywhere. The cobble stone streets appeared as they must have centuries ago.
Wine bottles are used to give the illusion of grapes on this grape arbor artfully arching the entrance to one of the homes.

Remember, we are walking through the town center, which was 90% destroyed in 17 minutes on 16 March 1945. I don't know exactly how much damage the cathedral suffered, but today it looks remarkably intact.

Our guide told us that those unusual treats are very tasty. We did not stop to try them though. Too much food on board I guess.

The buildings were certainly architecturally distinct and esthetically beautiful, and we were enjoying this city tour.

I loved the ornate signs advertising the various businesses. This one was for a pharmacy. Looking out over the
country side, I just wanted to find a horse and go for a long ride. I've seen ivy covered cottages before, but this
one was an overkill. Don't we look like happy tourists? It's kind of difficult to blend in without lederhosen. ;o)

Well, "A" is definitely out. "B" & "C" are a little too fru fru. I do, however, like the rugged look of "D".

Perhaps a stylish had would do the trick. I would certainly stand out in a crowd. I do like those huge beer mugs. ;o)

Next we stopped at the Crime Museum. It was a very enlightening visit.

This steel cage carriage, the predecessor to our modern day "paddy wagon", was parked at a the entrance to the museum.

Inside the museum, shown in various stages, is a unique collection covering such diversified areas as instruments of judgement, torture and punishment decrees pertaining to medieval laws. The various display areas of the museum give everybody an insight into the law, punishment and living conditions of the so-called "good old times".

Hanging a person by their wrists or ankles off the ground was a tortuous experience, as was the chair with the
sharp wooden spikes pressing against your body, or the rack which stretched you out. Actually, as we get older,
that might feel pretty good. People spend big bucks on antigravity contraptions to accomplish the same thing.

The blacksmith must have had weird nightmares at night to think up these various contraptions to cause pain and
suffering. I especially liked the "Double Neck Violin" for quarrelsome women. Also, quarrelsome couples were
punished in such manner until harmony was once again restored to their household. This one never should have
gone out of fashion. What a great way to resolve domestic quarrels. ;o)

I wonder if kicking was allowed?

Iron maiden (Nürnberg) Original, 15th~16th century. A mantle of infamy for women and girls. The wooden oak
mantle is covered on the inside and outside with sheet-iron. The hand and neck ruffle were representative of 16th
century women's clothing. Women were publicly displayed while wearing the iron maiden. Despite earlier belief
to the contrary, the iron maiden was no instrument of death. ~ The iron cage was used to put wrong doers on
public display, for humiliation. ~ The "Drunk Tank" was especially used for men who went often to the inns and
drank too much. Through the hole came the head so that the weight of the barrel was carried on the shoulders.
As a special hardship sometimes weights were put on the outside. ~ The Executioner's Mask, 17th Century. It
covered the executioner's face to protect him from he evil stares of his victims.

The two top photos are of executioner's swords. The one on the right, circa 1640, has an engraved inscription
"SOLI DEO GLORIA" and the name of the executioner "GEORG GEBHARDT". Impressioned on both sides
of the blunt edge is the master mark of Johann Wunder from Solingen. It is one of the few preserved executioner's
swords with monogram. ~ Frame 3 shows the chopping blocks and executioner's axes. ~ I have no idea why
the papal crown and globus cruciger (Latin, "cross-bearing orb") is on display in this museum of crime and
torture, unless it represents the papal authority in the dispensation of justice.

We stroll down one of the wider streets, concluding our walking tour of
Würzburg, and then are taken to a local restaurant for an included lunch.

If memory serves me, our lunch in town was not as good as what we normally get on board the Var.

The meal consisted of Franconian potato soup, home-made Bratwurst, wine-sauerkraut,
mashed potatoes and for dessert we had apple strudel with vanilla sauce.

Following lunch we went for a tour of the Würzburg Residenz.

This is the front and rear view of the Würzburg Residenz. Our tour will begin in Part 6.

The Residenz was commissioned to be built in 1720 and was completed in 1744. It was designed much along the lines of the Palace of Versailles in Paris, only on a much smaller scale. I seriously doubt that we could build something as grand as this today, simply because our form of government wouldn't allow the dichotomy of the very rich vs the very poor to become so widely different. I think that in the 16th and 17th centuries there was a definite rivalry among the worlds elite classes, a game of oneupmanship if you like. The French were, in my opinion, the champions of excess. If you've ever visited Versailles, you will know exactly what I mean. So now I leave you to wonder what is inside this amazing building.